It's 10am on a Tuesday. A tad early for a soundtrack of Indo
Pop. My Bahasa Indonesia is coming along just enough for me to make
out about two or three words from each song. But I don't really need
to speak the language to know that it's pining, teen angst emanating
from the speakers. “Maaf!” – “Sorry”, the young Indonesian
man sings with heart, though for what I can't quite tell.
I'm
sitting at a cafe perched somewhat above the steep eastern bank of
the river that runs through Kasongan, a village south west of
Yogyakarta known for ceramics. A murky khaki colour, the river runs
swiftly, carrying with it leaves, branches and the odd plastic bottle
or bag just like those that pepper the opposite shore. While far from
pristine, it's nowhere near as bad as you might imagine a Javanese
river downstream of a large city to be. I'm not sure I'd swim in it,
but the waist-deep cast net fisherman,
just now hauling in
his morning's catch (or maybe his fifth of the day), seems completely
unfazed by the quality of the water.
My
cappuccino arrives. Sickly sweet, for a guy who always takes his
coffee tanpa gula (without sugar). Yet again, I forgot to
request gula di sisi (sugar on the side), which is essential
here even for the most sweet-toothed visitor. Not sure it would make
much difference — this is 'fresh from the sachet' coffee. Come all
this way for hot cup of Java, and they give me the sachet mix. But
hey, it's a cappuccino, and it cost me 5,000 rupiah — less than 50
cents — so I think I'll cope.
Against
the picturesque backdrop of the river, a sign hangs on a roof post:
What better prompt to whip out the lappie and write this, my first journal entry of this crazy Indonesian adventure? I've thought a lot over the past five and a half weeks about what to write about, but I truly haven't had the chance to stop, collect my thoughts and write it all down. The main thought that keeps coming up is “why”.
“Today is the best day in my life”
What better prompt to whip out the lappie and write this, my first journal entry of this crazy Indonesian adventure? I've thought a lot over the past five and a half weeks about what to write about, but I truly haven't had the chance to stop, collect my thoughts and write it all down. The main thought that keeps coming up is “why”.
Why
write a blog?
Why
Yogyakarta?
Why
would a guy in a stable job, with lots of fantastic friends and
family around him, choose to uproot with his wife and three-year-old
boy, and relocate to a country where he can't even speak the
language?
And
extending that - “what do I hope to gain from this?”
“Why
Jogja?” is easy. My wife's father lives in Tembi; a
gorgeous, quiet village about ten minutes south of the
ring road that encircles the city of Yogyakarta and effectively marks
its boundary. He's been here for over ten years now, using it as a
base for his international disaster shelter consultancy business, and
more recently also setting up a homestay bungalow business*. I'd
already been to Jogja thrice prior, to visit Dave, and I really loved
the place. And as many of you know, my wife and I were married here. Suffice to say, when my wife suggested moving here it wasn't a
difficult sell. We had a ready made community waiting here for us; a
cushioned landing to what otherwise might be an overwhelming leap of
faith.
* (If
you ever plan to come to Jogja, seriously check out Yabbiekayu
(www.yabbiekayu.com)
as an accomm option. It's a
beautiful, unique and special place, with vastly more character than
a hotel. And cheaper too).
Ooh the
young waitress has switched the soundtrack over. Not sure if she
thinks this is catering to the tastes of the bule
(white person) – which it isn't – or more likely this is just the
western music she, and apparently most of Jogja's youth, get into.
Hoobastank
– The Reason Is You, followed by Jason Mraz – I'm Yours.
I think
I preferred the Indonesia Pop mix, if only for the cultural immersion
factor.
I don't
know what the answer to the first question is. Indeed, why write a
blog? There are a lot of blogs out there, and I'm not sure what
adding to the overload will achieve. I guess the main idea is to
document my experiences to remind myself later as the memories fade,
and to update anyone interested as to what I've been up to. But I
think this is also a form of therapy for me as well, a much-needed
creative outlet. I've called it “The Jogja Bludger”, as I am taking a
year off from my paid career back home to be here, and “belajar”,
my wife informs me, means “learn” or “study”.
And that
leads on to the third question – why such a dramatic life change?
Ostensibly,
I'm here because my wife is doing her Honours year in Midwifery,
having completed her bachelors degree over the last five years (while
birthing and raising our three-year-old). Her interest is less in the
western risk-based “child-birth is a medical emergency” model,
and more in the “women have been having babies quite splendidly for
millennia, long before doctors and hospitals came along to intervene
in this (usually) perfectly natural process”. So here we are, in a
developing nation, where she hopes to learn about more
community-focussed approaches to pregnancy and labour.
My
situation was a bit different. Career-wise, I'm roughly nine years
into a career I fell into completely by accident. I'm quite good at
it, am financially able to support my family adequately, and I even
enjoy my job for the most part. But realistically I've advanced as
far as I am ever likely to in this role. Perhaps I just need a break, but that said, both they and I are totally open to the possibility that I might not come back.
...Oh
good, the Indo pop is back...
I am
blessed to have a wonderful, if scattered, family. But they will
always be there, and thanks to the wonders of modern technology, they
are only a video call away (if I can just be organised enough to make
the global time differences work for us!).
My
friends are really important to me, but I'd be lying if I said the
arrival of our son hadn't reduced my social interaction to almost
zero. Same with my creative pursuits – particularly DJing and music
making, both solo and in a band. Heck, for a guy for whom music is his
lifeblood, I hardly even had time to listen to music. So add all this
together, coupled with the fatigue levels and frustration that comes
with parenthood, and you have a guy with next to no sense of 'self'.
My life of late has pretty much been dictated by my job and the needs of my son.
Don't get me wrong – I'm grateful to have a job, and friends, and
family, and an amazing wife and son. But something was missing...
Oh no –
now the young lady has taken her phone away and the music has stopped
completely. Suddenly the sounds of trucks and motorcycles crossing
the bridge come to the fore. That's pretty much the soundtrack to
Jogja; a constant background hum, engines approaching and fading like
the endless loop of waves on a beach, only more polluted and far less
soothing.
So, when
the wife suggested doing her honours year here in Jogja, where we
could afford to support ourselves on savings even if her scholarship
bids were not successful, saying “yes” felt like the first major
decision I'd made in ages. It sparked a sense of adventure, an
opportunity to go somewhere foreign, get uncomfortable, get back in
touch with my creative side, and really “live” again. The dream
of making music inspired by my escapades, riding a motorcycle through this
slightly alien world taking photos and really investing some time in
myself was too good to pass up. Why not?
The question, I guess, is how much of this will I really be able to do, given I am putting on the "stay-at-home dad" cap at the same time? I guess time, and hopefully soon after, this blog, will reveal.
The question, I guess, is how much of this will I really be able to do, given I am putting on the "stay-at-home dad" cap at the same time? I guess time, and hopefully soon after, this blog, will reveal.
Hi Mark,
ReplyDeleteLove the blog. Thoroughly enjoyed reading it all. Honestly, I felt like I was reading an autiobiography book (which I love reading). I will enjoy following you through your blog....it's written brillantly. I could almost feel myself sitting beside you having that cuppaccino (mine without sugar please).
I am also going to say that I have a very artistic nephew with his writing. Love to Kai and Charlie.
Love Mandy xoxo
Wow! This is great, Mark! I know exactly how you feel. Replace "Yogya" with "Bandung" and you're almost writing my story.
ReplyDeleteAlthough, we've lived in Yogya a few times prior to this last year in Bandung - for a year back in 2001, before the kids arrived, and a few three-month stints here and there since then.
Unfortunately, after all this time, my Bahasa Indonesia is still relatively pretty poor, especially considering the amount of time I've spent immersed in it!...
We're actually getting set to up-sticks and move to Yogya ourselves in the next few months. At least, my wife and kids will be. I'm awaiting a decision on my request for an extension of my leave from work, so not sure if I'll be going or not. If I do, it'd be great to meet up sometime, share our stories.
But Yogya is an amazing town. I'm sure you'll grow to love it.
And Tembi is a fantastic place. We've treated ourselves to stays at Tembi Rumah Budaya and Omah Tembi many times. Haven't made it to Yabbiekayu yet though.
Anyway, semoga berhasil (good luck)! I look forward to reading future installments.
Cheers,
Shane
Thanks for your comment, Shane, and for checking my blog. Fingers crossed you and family can arrange things to come back. This city is still amazing (he says as an election procession rolls past at 7:55am). I look forward to meeting you, perhaps over a frosty Bintang.
DeleteAh! From where I sit 500 metres away, in our shared piece of paradise, can so appreciate the call and challenge of remaking yourself here in Java....Getting uncomfortable, and really living, that's the thing: everything is at once more interesting, and more complicated! Will look forward to future installments!
ReplyDelete