Massages. While you eat.

In the southern tourist part of town, Jalan Prawirotaman, there is a funny old character named Bapak O'Om. Not sure of the spelling, but it's pronounced 'Oh-ohm'. We've met him on previous trips, as he goes from restaurant to restaurant, bar to bar, offering massages to the patrons for a small fee. And while he rubs  head, face, neck and shoulders, he delights in talking of his family, especially his children, of whom he is incredibly proud. He's one of the true characters of Jogja.

Here he is, massaging my wife, bringing her as much joy as the Via Via bakery cheesecake we shared shortly afterwards. Conversation with Pak O'Om of course focussed mostly on his family, and ours - especially the new addition. He is incredibly confident he knows the gender. And in September we find out if he was right.